War Remnants Museum

The next morning/day, I walked first to the War Remnants Museum which was near the hotel I was staying at as well as the Cathedral of the previous post.  I think admission was 15,000 dong ($.71).  The museum is operated by the Vietnamese government and I read that the museum was opened in a hurry, less than five months after the fall of the South Vietnamese regime and was billed as "The House for Displaying War Crimes of American Imperialism and the Puppet Government [of South Vietnam]."  Later it was known as the Museum of American War Crimes, then as the War Crimes Museum until as recently as 1993.  Its current name follows liberalization in Vietnam and the normalization of relations with the United States.  It has moved to new premises with 3 stories of exhibits and, as you can see, there are various U.S. military period hardware (tanks, jets, helicopters, etc.) on display outside the building.

The museum primarily contains exhibits relating to the American phase of the Vietnam War (by the way, the Vietnamese call it the American War – opposite of what we call it).  This museum really focuses on many pictures and stories from the Vietnam War of American war crimes committed in Vietnam.  Of course, there is very obvious bias as there are no "records" of any unpleasant deeds having been committed by the North Vietnamese Army.  Now I read about this ‘slant’ before arriving and I thought it would not bother me too much as I’m a guest in their country and I know they’re going to ‘spin’ it so America is the bully and the bad guys.  But this was probably the most disturbing museum I have ever seen – they did not hold back.  Some of the exhibits are extremely gruesome and a lot of the pics are in full graphic display – limbs torn apart; babies and mothers piled on top of each other like trash; American soldiers holding up torsos and other body parts, American soldiers ‘torturing’ peasants, etc. – it was non-stop.  There was another whole exhibit of the Americans attempt to destroy Vietnam and it’s race with Agent Orange – just picture after picture of deformities.  I just couldn’t believe it.  Families of all stripes were walking around this museum with children and the pics were so graphic – I would never have allowed my children (if I had any) to see that.  They also had "tiger cages" where prisoners were held as well as other torture implements and jars of deformed fetuses from Agent Orange and napalm.

Most museums in Vietnam close (and kick everybody out) for lunch time around noon – and that’s what happened with me.  I didn’t even get to the third floor when they started kicking everybody out but to be honest – it was time for me to go.  As an American (and a proud one), this museum was starting to get to me – and not in a good, complimentary way.  Actually, I was just reading a story online where an American said that ‘there aren’t too many places in the world that I have visited that has made me feel uncomfortable, but this place did ... being an American.’  I agree with this.  I just felt weird, mad, angry, sorry, misunderstanding, etc.  Lots of emotions – all wrapped up in one.  But going to an anti-American war museum will do that I guess – especially when I have family who fought and were involved in that conflict.  In the end, the museum was definitely not for the faint of heart but I’m glad I visited it to say I’ve seen it.